The wiring and hoses may need to be extended to reach the new compressor location. The AC condenser must be relocated to the front side of the radiator to clear the fan. The center vertical bar in the core support must be cut out to make room. On carbureted V8s you must use an in-line electric fuel pump with a psi rating. In most cases, a mechanical fuel pump will interfere with your steering box. If your vehicle came with electronic fuel injection, you have an in-tank fuel pump with a 40 psi rating.
A regulator must be used to reduce pressure to psi. If a regulator is unavailable, you need to remove the in-tank fuel pump and install an in-line electric fuel pump.
On fuel-injected V8s, you can retain the stock in-tank pump. If you install a highly modified engine, you may need to upgrade to a more powerful pump to supply more fuel pressure. The starter motor, flywheel, bell housing, and torque converter or clutch are a matched set.
V8's in F-series came with tooth flywheels which are larger and harder to fit around the firewall. The tooth flywheel from passenger cars is smaller and easier to fit.
It is important to check your flywheel and starter for proper engagement before installing the engine. Your firewall and floor pan area is narrow and may need some slight modifications. We suggest using a 14" torque converter and bell housing to make clearance. Otherwise, a 3 lb sledgehammer can make enough room.
The body seam between the floor pan and the firewall must be bent over. In some instances, additional clearance may be needed near the bottom corners where the firewall and the floor pan meet. The heater box will need to be trimmed slightly and patched to clear the valve cover. When converting to a V8, you can use the stock V6 temperature and pressure gauge sending units.
If your vehicle has a mechanical tachometer, you will need to have it re-calibrated for the new engine. Most swaps do not require the use of a suspension or body lift. No an A4LD will not bolt up to a 5. Will a automatic ford ranger wiring harness fixed a standard ford ranger?
Charles answered 2 years ago. I'm in the process of putting a into a '89 Ranger. I'm told that some of the cross member was drilled for different mounts. Was this the case for the '89? I went to the salvage yard for a set of Explore 5. They were totally different than what is in my truck. Guru2SVQJ answered about a year ago. Guru23RJS answered about a year ago.
Don't you have to change the rear end Guru62C3G answered about a year ago. I was told that you can't leave my transmission in it because its to week. I was told to get a c-4 which I have no idea where do get one or what kind of truck to get it out of. I have a ford ranger was wondering if it would bolt up to my in it. Where can I buy Ford Ranger took out 2. Review another car. Content submitted by Users is not endorsed by CarGurus, does not express the opinions of CarGurus, and should not be considered reviewed, screened, or approved by CarGurus.
Please refer to CarGurus Terms of Use. Content will be removed if CarGurus becomes aware that it violates our policies. What all do you have to do to put a in a ranger will it bolt up to a 2. Report Follow. Mark helpful. Your Answer:. Upload Photo Photo optional. Related Questions. Start a new Ford Ranger question. Own this car? Share your experience with others. Write a car review. Search Ford Ranger Questions. CarGurus Experts. Using your factory Ranger gauges complicates things quite a bit.
It sounds like you've got a TON of researching and reading to do. Also hopefully it will all make since as I begin the build and tear things apart. Im probably also over complicating it in my head haha. As always I appreciate your time and knowledge. Elutheros Active Member Supporting Member. Military - Veteran. V8 Engine Swap. I know you are getting a ton of advice--and I'll add my two cents. Get yourself an Explorer intake, heads, and front accessory drive.
The Explorer FEAD will give you a lot more room in the engine compartment and allow you to convert to a serpentine belt. The wiring takes a while to put together, but it's cheaper than buying a new harness.
The M5ODR2 is an easy choice although less convenient to drive than an automatic. Any automatic available for your combination of drivetrain will probably require a rebuild and add lots of cost to your project.
Save yourself a lot of hassle and do a 3" body lift to make everything easier to fit. The 5. So that's another option. The Thunderbird 5. But you wanting to retain 4x4, you'd have to find an AOD from a 4x4 application. I went with an aftermarket EFI harness because I didn't want to deal with 20 year old wires, brittle and corroded connectors, and end up chasing phantom wiring problems.
So for me, spending the extra money was well worth it. Just some more food for thought For anyone who is also new to this stuff: a trick when pulling an E motor without removing the body is to get the van as far off the ground as possible to compensate for the angle of an engine hoist.
Might be common knowledge but while doing my research almost everyone suggested just removing the cab from the chassis, not realistic in my garage. Last edited: May 26,
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