Just don't go the other way. Plug fuses like the ones in the photo above show their type and ampacity or size both by color convention - the color of the fuse top - and by printing on the fuse that will give the amps rating and fuse type on the fuse top surface. Plug fuses are sold in two base diameters: traditional larger-diameter Edison-base fuse plugs, and smaller-diameter S-Fuses.
Edison base fuses : Larger-diameter screw-in base fuses at the right in my photo are called Edison base fuses and fit into older fuse boxes. Type-S fuses at the left in my photo use a smaller-diameter, finer-threaded base and screw into a socket adapter that has already been screwed into the Edison-base-sized fuse socket in the fuse panel. Each Type-S fuse base diameter is unique to the fuse's amps rating, and once a type-S fuse adapter has been screwed into the original Edison-fuse size socket in the fuse panel, the adapter can't be removed.
The Type-S fuse can, however, be un-screwed from the adapter when the fuse has blown and needs to be replaced. S-type fuses are also called rejection-base fuses or tamper-proof fuses because they will reject or prohibit the screwing-in of the wrong-sized fuse.
S-fuse adapter is to prevent the user from installing a fuse of larger size Amps-rating than is proper for the circuit. These fuses are not very pretty, as they've been bouncing around in my electrical toolbox for three decades, kept at hand for an emergency need that has not arisen.
Type T-fuses are a time delay fuse that are also called "slow-blow" fuses. Type T time delay fuses, shown above as a Amp fuse, are designed to avoid blowing the fuse during the brief current-draw surge that occurs when some motors first turn-on. An example use of a time delay fuse is on an air conditioner circuit whose compressor draws high current when the motor first starts.
Water pumps and some other circuits also use time delay Type T fuses. If the circuit protected by a Type T fuse continues to draw excessive current beyond a few seconds, the soldered spring-loaded link inside the fuse continues to melt and the spring pulls the fuse apart, opening or turning off the circuit.
The time delay mechanism in a Type T fuse will usually appear to include a spring that is used to pull apart or open the fuse when its fusible link melts.
Like a Type T fuse, the TL fuse permits a brief circuit overload such as when a motor is starting. Typically a Type TL fuse uses a large solder blob that acts as a heat sink but finally melts to open the fuse after a delay. The duration of the time delay is controlled by the dimensions of the solder link that is to melt.
At higher current flow rates the solder link heats more-rapidly so the fuse will blow sooner, and at very high current flow rates such as a dead short, the solder link will melt almost instantly. The red arrow under the word "SINK" points to the solder that acts as a heat sink to slow the melting of the narrow copper fusible link, giving a time delay before the fuse will blow. But with a high current flow the narrow copper strip with a small hole in its center will melt almost immediately, regardless of the nearby solder heat sink.
The mica covers are a safety feature on fuses that form a shield to prevent melted copper and solder from spraying out of the fuse when the fuse blows. Inside a TL fuse you'll see that the time delay mechanism is in essence a large rectangular blob of solder. Instead of a spring-loaded fuse-blow mechanism seen inside of type T and Type S fuses, a Type TL fuse uses a larger piece of solder that can absorb and dissipate some heat from the circuit before the solder melts and the fuse "blows".
Type W Fuses are an Edison-base screw-in fuse that is a quick-blow or "fast-acting" fuse. Type W fuses, shown above in a Amp fuse, use no time-delay feature at all. Instead the fuse is designed to blow very quickly if there is an over-current on the electrical circuit the fuse is intended to protect. A fast-acting or quick-blow fuse can open the electrical circuit in as little as 0.
If you look into the window of a Type W fuse you'll see that the copper strip inside the fuse has a very narrow section outlined in yellow in my photo that will heat up and melt rapidly when an over-current occurs.
Type W fuses belong on lighting circuits, receptacle circuits, and on other electrical circuits that do not feed high-current electric motors, air conditioners, or water pump motors. Cartridge fuses are available in an enormous range of ampacities but in a residential fuse panel the cartridge fuses in use will usually be a higher amperage rating than most of the plug fuses in an electrical fuse panel, and are usually used in and replaced in pairs to protect a higher-current Volt circuit.
The amps rating of a cartridge fuse will be printed on the fuse label and will also be determined by the fuse diameter. Watch out : I've made all of these cartridge fuse images the same size.
In reality each fuse will be quite different in physical dimensions. Higher-ampacity fuses will be larger in size than smaller amp-rated cartridge fuses. Notice that cartridge fuses are provided in two different designs: a round-end fuse that clips into receiving half-round clips in the fuse panel and copper spade-tipped fuses like the A Eaton cartridge fuse shown above.
In some fuse designs the copper tip can be removed depending on the panel into which it is to be inserted. The cartridge fuse diameter will in most cases prevent you from inserting an over-sized fuse into the fuse clip. Branch circuits, Sump pumps, Small motors Boiler or furnace. Dual-element cartridge fuses include a fast-blow feature that opens the circuit as quickly as 0. Midget cartridge fuses include the following. Midget Class CC - rejection versions used for both branch circuit wiring and supplemental device protection.
Un-screw the plug fuse by turning it counter-clockwise "lefty-loosie" as my daughter Mara says. Should you ever pull the main fuse or switch off the main circuit breaker in the electrical panel? Absolutely: in an emergency if you suspect that an electrical fire is at risk or if someone is being shocked, don't waste time trying to guess which circuit is at fault.
I recognize that this may be inconvenient in the dark let's hope you grabbed a flashlight but I prefer inconvenience to a building fire or an electrocution. Special hazards are faced when pulling a main fuse block or any fuse block even though this is a device intended for emergency use by a homeowner. Using the fuse block handle , pull the fuse block straight out of the fuse panel.
Watch out : if the cartridge fuses are not removed by pulling out a fuse block like the ones in our photo above, you'll need to use an insulated cartridge pulling tool, usually a plastic clip, to remove the cartridge fuse. Do not try to grab the fuse directly with your fingers because you may touch live electrical contacts - the shock could kill you.
Using a fuse puller to remove individual cartridge fuses : if there is not a fuse puller already at hand near your fuse panel, stop by your local hardware store or electrical supplier and buy one now, before the emergency. There are many other similar cartridge-fuse pulling tools of varying designs, all made of non-conductive materials to help prevent electric shock or worse. The new replacement cartridge fuse is pushed into the spring clips that held the two ends of the fuse that was removed.
Watch out : take care to push the fuse block squarely into its opening or it may not seat and the electrical system could be unsafe or fail to provide power. In the "OFF" position the block will re-insert into its opening very easily - and without making any electrical contact.
Insert such fuse blocks with the letters "ON" facing up or towards the pointer arrow molded into the fuse panel receiver. At one inspection the author pulled the main fuse block in a Amp panel, only to have the pullout block disintegrate in his hand. A new panel was needed as the service and equipment were obsolete, not because the fuse pullout needed replacement.
But we pose that it may be difficult to find a replacement fuse pull-out for some older fuse panels. If I had not pulled the fuse shown at lower right in this photo, something interesting would have been missed. Is that smaller fuse unsafe?
No, installing a smaller fuse means that the overcurrent device will open the circuit under less current flow. What about the other wiring in the panel?
There is an unsafe open splice at the right side of the panel. Are some of the edison-base fuses oversized? Can't tell for sure from the photo. In older fuse panels people are too often tempted to get around a frequent problem with blown fuses by installing an over-sized fuse - this is an unsafe action and is a fire hazard.
Be sure that fuses in the panel are matched properly to the wire size. Watch out : if the new fuse blows again then there is an unsafe condition on the electrical circuit. In that case do not keep replacing fuses. Doing so risks a building fire, property loss, injury or worse. If there are multiple appliances connected to the circuit whose fuse is blowing, unplug everything on the circuit.
Look for signs of overheating or damaged equipment such as frayed power cords, discolored or melted wall plugs, burning odors. Watch out : if the fuse for a circuit blows when nothing is connected to it the problem is in the wiring of the circuit itself. The circuit is unsafe and should be left off. Call a licensed electrician for repair assistance.
On - by mod - If the circuit breakers keep tripping. Moma If the circuit breakers keep tripping then we know that the fault is not the breaker but rather the circuit: it is either overloaded or short circuited and is unsafe and should be left off until the wire, wire connections, or most-likely, the heater itself is repaired.
On an electric water heater, one of the failures that can occur is a burnt-up and short circuited heater element. On - by mod - how to determine the correct size or rating for your fuses. John You can determine the correct size or rating for your fuses by noting the wire size of the circuit it is protecting. For example a number 14 copper wire would be requiring a 15 amp fuse. In the article index you will find other articles in this series on wire sizes versus ampacity.
S-Type Fuse Identification Hi. I have an S-type fuse that is operable, but have no spares. Markings are completely unreadable. It was quite the ordeal to get him home and into the house, but it is done. Thank you to everyone for their support. Now a long road ahead to get him back on his feet and functioning normally.
I have started a GoFundMe to help with the medical bills. Please help, if you can. Discussion in ' DIY ' started by bcody , May 1, Log in or Sign up. Messages: Does anyone know of a place I could get to by public transit in or near NYC that would have something like an 0. I've already tried 5 Radioshack locations with no luck. Messages: 69, Location: Fort Dodge, Iowa.
Look no farther than your PC.. Messages: 46, Location: LoTL. Last edited: May 1, Messages: 2, What a great loss to the electronic hobbyists! You could have bought anything electronic there. I also used to go to Bronx Wholesale Radio, that later became Lafayette. But then I am not answering your question. I live in Los Angeles now. And as far as I am concerned, Radio Schlock sucks. I won't go there.
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